Metallic Epoxy Flooring

Metallic Illusion is a three-dimensional Metallic Epoxy Flooring system designed to create elegant and exotic looking seamless floors. Ideal for residential use, retail stores, office spaces, lobby areas, tattoo parlors, barber shops, hair salons, restaurants, clothing stores, casinos and showroom floors.

Metallic Illusion is a high gloss, 100% solids, low viscosity, solvent free polymer system integrating the latest technology. Metallic Illusion combines the ease of application of epoxies with the toughness and wear resistance of acrylics. It offers a safe alternative to conventional solvent based materials as well as being resistant to ultra violet degradation for internal behind window applications.

The Metallic Epoxy Flooring system consists of:

 

For Platinum Prices Login

Videos

Technical Data

Application Accessories

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the final thickness of the Metallic Illusion?

When applied at approx 1m2 per ltr, then the final finish will be 1mm.

Do you need to seal a metallic epoxy floor?

It is not absolutely necessary to use another sealer over the top of the metallic floor, however it is advisable. The use of a UV stable polyurethane (Fortis 519) will protect the epoxy from scratching and also provide UV protection.

How do you prepare the metallic epoxy for sealing with a polyurethane?

The epoxy must be left to fully cure. Once cured, it is strongly recommend to wash the floor with a 50/50 mix of methylated spirits and water to remove any amine residue the epoxy may have left on the surface. It will then need to be sanded with a fine grade screenback and then vacuumed thoroughly.

Trouble Shooting Guide

Trouble Shooting Guide

COLOUR VARIANCE

DESCRIPTION:

  • Difference in colour or shading of topcoat

CAUSE:

  • Re-touching after 15 minutes: Colour float issues arise when a pigmented epoxy has been applied and is re-touched or rolled again after sitting for 15 minutes or longer. Different shades in the colour may result.
  • Using different batch numbers: Colouring can vary from batch to batch. Different batches used on the same project can result in a colour variance.

REPAIR:

  • Back roll the entire area always using a lint free, 10-12mm nap roller. Always try to go across the entire area from side-to-side.
  • When possible, re-coats should always be completed with the same coating batch. If batches are different, blend coloured (part a) side first before adding the hardener (part b).

PREVENTION:

  • If material needs to be re-touched or rolled for any reason, it needs to be done within 10 minutes of application.
  • Different batch numbers – Always check to make sure that you have the same batch number on the resin side (part a) of the product prior to adding the hardener (part b). If they are different, then mix the part a together first before adding the hardener (part b)

FISH EYE

DESCRIPTION:

  • Fish eyes are round separations or indentations in the coating finish. They look like a crater with a rim around the perimeter and contain a small dot in the centre. This is what gives it the name “fish eye”.

CAUSE:

  • Oil / Grease Contaminants: This can cause the epoxy to work improperly and fish eyes to appear
  • Silicone: Contamination from silicone can cause fish eyes to appear

REPAIR:

Oil / Grease:

  • Remove the coating by grinding or another suitable method
  • Clean substrate; remove all oil & grease contamination
  • Re-coat the entire area

Silicone:

  • For isolated areas, sand with 60 grit sandpaper or diamond grind
  • For wide spread fish eye problem, remove the coating
  • Use solvent to remove contaminants from the substrate
  • Re-coat the entire area

PREVENTION:

  • Oil / Grease: De-grease the surface properly using the appropriate product. If it cannot be entirely removed, use a suitable oil-stop primer.

MILKY OR CLOUDY APPEARANCE

DESCRIPTION:

  • A milky or cloudy appearance in wet or cured epoxy

CAUSE:

  • Moisture: in the concrete or high humidity can cause moisture to be present on the surface when the material is being applied or before it’s fully cured. This can result in a “milky or greasy” film. This is sometimes referred to as a “blush” or “amine blush”.
  • Thick application: A milky or cloudy appearance can result from the product being applied too thick. It’s usually more noticeable if the coating is clear.

REPAIR:

  • For moisture, remove the affected area by diamond grinding
  • Monitor humidity levels and re-apply the epoxy within the recommended time frame
  • If “greasy”, wipe the surface with Acetone

PREVENTION:

  • Moisture – Test the area using a Moisture Meter
  • Thick Application – Follow the Technical Data Sheet for thickness recommendations

ORANGE PEEL

DESCRIPTION:

  • A stipple / orange peel appearance in the final coat of epoxy

CAUSE:

  • Cold substrate or Cold Materials – This will prevent the product from leveling out causing an “orange peel” appearance
  • Hot Substrate / Materials – This can cause the product to cure too rapidly which prevents the product from leveling out

REPAIR:

  • Diamond grind the surface dull
  • Remove all debris and dust by vacuum
  • Re-apply the epoxy topcoat as per the Technical Data Sheet instructions

PREVENTION:

  • Hot and Cold Substrate / Materials – Substrate should be above 15°C and materials should be between 21°C – 25°C. If thinning is desired, use up to 5% Xylene mixed into the coating

PEELING OR DELAMINATION

DESCRIPTION:

  • The epoxy is peeling or “letting go” from either the concrete or between layers of coatings

Delamination from substrate:

CAUSE:

  • Improper Cleaning – The epoxy will not adhere to dirt, grease, or other contaminants
  • No Primer Used – When priming is skipped, delamination may occur
  • Moisture Vapour – Water vapour penetrating up through the substrate can cause peeling or delamination. After removing the problem areas, you may notice the concrete being dark from being damp

REPAIR:

Improper Cleaning:

  • The coating must be removed by diamond grinding or shot blasting
  • Re-apply the epoxy after proper preparation

No Primer Used:

  • Remove the coating by suitable means
  • Prime and re-coat after proper preparation

Moisture Vapour:

  • Remove coating by suitable means
  • Measure moisture level & consult the Technical Data Sheet before re-applying

PREVENTION:

  • Improper Cleaning – Properly clean the substrate and provide a suitable profile by mechanical grinding or shot blasting
  • No Primer – Use a suitable primer or prepare a primer following directions

Moisture Vapour Transmission:

  • Substrates should have a properly installed and effective moisture barrier if in contact with the ground
  • Always perform a moisture test prior to installation. Test results should be no more than 75% relative humidity
  • Approved moisture barrier systems should be used on readings that are higher than recommended moisture levels

Delamination between coats:

CAUSE:

  • Beyond re-coat window: Coating was applied beyond the recommended time for re-coating
  • Surface contaminants: Surface was contaminated by water, humidity, oil, dust or grease
  • Improper Mixing Methods: Coating was not mixed at proper ratio or for 3 minutes at minimum

REPAIR:

Beyond Re-coat Window:

  • Remove all loose or un-bonded coating
  • Surface needs to sanded, using a diamond grinder
  • Vacuum to remove all dust and debris
  • Wipe the surface with Acetone and ensure to follow all safety instructions
  • Re-apply epoxy coating following Technical Data Sheet instructions

Surface Contamination:

  • Make sure surface is clean and dry and free of any contaminants prior to coating. Vacuum or mop any water or dust
  • Oil and grease must be removed using a degreaser
  • Make sure the surface is dry before applying another coat
  • If surface coat has been on longer than 36 hours, you must diamond grind the floor dull
  • Remove any dust from surface by vacuum
  • Wipe the surface with Acetone and ensure to follow all safety instructions
  • Re-apply epoxy coating following Technical Data Sheet instructions

Improper Mixing:

  • Remove any loose, peeling or uncured coating
  • Any uncured coating must be solvent wiped with Acetone
  • Diamond grind the epoxy coating
  • Vacuum the surface to remove dust and debris
  • Solvent wipe surface with Acetone
  • Re-apply the epoxy following the Technical Data Sheet instructions

PREVENTION:

  • Beyond Re-coat Window – Each coat needs to be applied with 24 hours
  • Surface Contamination – Check the substrate carefully before applying the epoxy. Remove any contamination prior to coating
  • Improper Mixing – Follow directions on labels and Technical Data Sheets

PINHOLES / BUBBLING

DESCRIPTION:

  • Pinholes in the coating appear as small blisters or bubbles. After the blisters pop, they leave a round crater and the pinhole can be seen through the transparent film

CAUSE:

  • Out gassing – Air escapes from the porous substrate and becomes trapped in the coating
  • Temperature / Humidity – If too hot or humid, it can result in rapid drying that causes air entrapment in the coating
  • Air Movement – Air movement from fans, door or vents blowing directly on the surface may cause flash drying which causes bubbles
  • Sunlight – Direct sunlight can cause the product to tack up before necessary air release has occurred, which results in bubbles
  • Mixing – Mixing at too high of a speed entraps air, resulting in bubbles
  • Surface Prep – Extreme/aggressive shot blasting opens the pores in the concrete causing air to be trapped when the coating is applied resulting in bubbles
  • Roller Covers – Not using the correct nap roller. Lint free, 10mm – 12mm nap rollers are recommended

REPAIR:

  • Sand the problem areas until dull. Vacuum dust and debris
  • Fill large craters with epoxy patching material
  • Sand patched areas and vacuum
  • Re-apply coating at recommended rate and follow directions

PREVENTION:

  • Out gassing – Use an epoxy primer on all porous concrete. Follow directions for mixing and using primer. Spike rollers can be used if bubbles appear but may not completely remove them
  • Air Movement – Eliminate any source of direct air blowing onto the surface
  • Temperature and Humidity – Follow all direction to insure you are within the products recommended ranges
  • Sunlight – Avoid direct sunlight when applying
  • Mixing – Always use a jiffy mixer and medium to slow speeds. If air bubbles are present in coating, allow to sit briefly before pouring on the floor
  • Roller Covers – Always use the correct nap roller. Lint free, 10mm – 12mm nap rollers are recommended
  • Surface Prep – Avoid aggressive shot blasting

NOT DRYING / SLOW

DESCRIPTION:

  • The epoxy does not fully cure, or remains soft/tacky 24 hours after application

CAUSE:

  • Improper mix ratios
  • Improper mixing methods
  • Cold ambient temperatures

REPAIR:

  • Remove the uncured coating down to the clean substrate by using solvent, scraping or mechanical grinding. Follow safety instructions on solvent
  • Re-apply the epoxy coating per Technical Data Sheet
  • Never apply epoxy over uncured material

PREVENTION:

  • Improper Mix ratios – Always read and follow the printed information on the product containers or the Product Data Sheet. Use buckets that have pre-printed measuring guides to insure the proper mix ratio
  • Improper Mixing Methods – Always mix the resin side (part a) first thoroughly. Then combine with the hardener (part b). Always mix for 3 minutes using a Jiffy mixing paddle, never a drywall mud mixing blade. Never flip buckets upside down on the floor to drain. This could result in sticky spots
  • Cold Material – Always make sure the product containers have been brought to suitable room temperatures. Cold materials are difficult to mix and to work with
  • Cold Ambient Temperatures – This will cause slower than normal drying times.  This can cause air bubbles and blisters since the epoxy will remain thick and prevent vapor in the floor from escaping. Make sure the room is brought to suitable temperatures for at least 2 full days prior to application
  • Cold Surface Temperatures – Floors that are 13°C or lower will greatly affect the drying time of the epoxy. It can also hurt the physical performance properties of the epoxy. A cold surface can also cause adhesion issues with your project. Make sure the floor is at least 15°C for a minimum of 2 days prior to application

STAINS / TYRE MARKS

CAUSE:

  • Tyre Marks – Marks left behind from vehicles
  • Chemicals or Spills – Contamination left from spilling products on the surface

PREVENTION:

  • Chemicals or Spills – Epoxies take approximately 7 – 10 days to fully cure. It is important to allow a minimum of 24 hours for foot traffic and at least 2 full days for forklift traffic or heavy loads
  • Tyre Marks – Due to the tyres being manufactured with plasticisers, which improve cold weather traction, they tend to leach this plasticiser on to the epoxy floors when the tyres are warm or hot from driving. This chemical reaction between the tyres and epoxy floors are sometimes unavoidable. To help prevent this, consider placing a rubber mat at the location where tyres will be on a constant basis

STICKY OR UNCURED EPOXY

DESCRIPTION:

  • The epoxy does not fully cure, or it is still soft / sticky after 24 hours

CAUSE:

  • Improper mixing ratio
  • Improper mixing
  • Material was cold
  • Cold ambient temperatures
  • Cold surface temperatures

REPAIR:

  • Remove the uncured coating down to the clean substrate by using solvent wiping, scraping and grinding or shot blasting. Follow all safety precautions
  • Re-coat the entire floor following Product Data Sheets
  • Never apply over uncured material

PREVENTION:

  • Improper Mix Ratio – Always read and follow the mix ratios on the bucket labels and/or the Technical Data Sheet. Use mixing containers that have printed measuring levels on them
  • Improper Mixing – Always mix the resin side (part a) thoroughly before adding the hardener (part b). Always use a jiffy style mixer and never a drywall mixing blade. Never turn buckets upside down on the floor to drain. This will allow unmixed product to seep onto the floor from the bucket walls and result in sticky spots
  • Cold Materials – Cold materials will result in slower than normal cure times and can affect their appearance when dry. Cold material is difficult to mix, roll out and to level out. Product should always be allowed to acclimate to the proper temperatures recommended on the Technical Data Sheets

YELLOWING

DESCRIPTION:

  • The epoxy has developed a yellow or amber Hue. This will affect both clear and pigmented epoxies

CAUSE:

  • Sunlight: Epoxies, when exposed to sunlight- direct or partial, will amber or yellow

REPAIR:

  • Remove any dirt, grease or oil by cleaning with appropriate cleaning agent
  • Dull the surface using a diamond grinder or other mechanical method. Then remove dust
  • Re-apply coating as per directions

PREVENTION:

  • When using a decorative flake system, use a full flake broadcast. Remember to apply a UV stable, clear, polyurethane topcoat
  • When using a solid color, use a UV stable, clear, polyurethane topcoat. This will not prevent yellowing entirely but will hinder it